Health & well being .....
Within this page I have gone into more detail with many health issues so hopefully you can be more informed about most things dog related.
A Newfoundland may be a "giant" breed but they are possibly one of the most vulnerable dogs in terms of health and exercise. If you want to take your dogs on long walks whilst young, then a Newfoundland is possibly not for you.
It is vitally important that you build your exercise up very gently. This is to be built up over time and when there is an obvious growth stage, take extra care. Walks should be built up at a steady pace to build muscle correctly.
The growth of these dogs is so vast in such a short space of time, therefore their joints need to adapt and change constantly. This is why an overweight puppy can too lead to joint problems in early life. If growth is too quick most advise you switch you puppy onto adult food to slow down the growth process. For me, it is important not so much the protein if you are feeding a high quality kibble, but you do not want to feed a kibble too high in calcium and phosphorous. Aim for one for puppies with calcium under 2 on the analyst chart and phosphorous around 1.1 or less. They will still reach their optimum size but the slower the better with this breed. Each puppy should be assessed individually as one rule does not fit all and also it depends on the type of diet your dog is fed. There are certain nutrients in puppy food your puppy needs so only swap when you have to. If feeding an all stages high premium food, this is not applicable as they do not normally have a puppy food, but follow the guidelines as you feed less of this food as it is of higher quality.
Some chose to feed raw but you have to be sure you understand the balance of the diet to make sure your dogs gets all the vital nutrition it requires for growth & development. Neither is wrong, it is what suits your dog and your lifestyle. I have two dogs that meat does not suit, so kibble is easier for me as they are on a fish only diet.
We feed a good quality kibble. I go by recommended guidelines and go by what comes out one end to be honest with you and also what i feel upon their body. What comes out and what the ribs feel like tells you a lot.
Try to remember that your puppy will get all the exercise he or she needs from playing at home in the garden and socializing with short walks building up minutes gradually. Puppies tire very quickly so let your puppy sleep when they need it and play when they are ready. Endurance exercise is best avoided until your puppy reaches about 18 months of age. If you are not prepared to wait then we advise you research a different breed that would better suit your lifestyle. Stairs and steep steps and jagged inclines are also not advised, but steep up hill walking can be beneficial to building up strong muscle tone and improving rear drive. Anything that bears weight and pressure onto the forefront or the rear is to be avoided such as jumping in and out of the cars without support. Continuous forced weight bearing on growing delicate joints can cause dysplastic conditions. This is a lifetime condition of the hips and elbows that can lead to a painful life with arthritis and medication. This can be near avoided if our guidelines here are followed. In some cases as with our own and first Newfoundland Anoushka, she developed double elbow dysplasia at just four months old and she was from health tested parents with good scores, but it can and does happen sadly. This is why at Shirebears we know the importance of caring for joints and how it affects all your lives first hand. Health testing BOTH parents can help eliminate an awful lot of health problems but sadly just like with people, it can and does happen and does not guarantee a fit and healthy puppy. The health testing clarify's the degree of any problems (if any) and whether they are of good breeding stock, remembering that your puppy inherits everything from both its parents. This is why both parents should be tested. Do not buy a puppy from a single health tested breeding.
For further reading on dysplasia in Newfoundland please use the link below -
http://truenewfoundlanddoglovers.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/canine-hip-dysplasia.html
This article is well worth five minutes of your time. It explains how the bones form in the joint and why dogs get joint issues. It recommends their supplement of course, which i do not use, but the information is that good it is worth having on here to share.
http://products.mercola.com/healthypets/pet-joint-supplements/
As well as dysplasia the Newfoundland can be prone to heart problems too. This very sadly can cause some to die at a very young age and very suddenly, with not a lot that can be done to help or save the dogs life. Some Newfoundlands can be clear for many years and do not get heart issues until later in life. Heart problems have always been a worry for our beloved breed. Medication is very advanced and can help get more years out of your beloved Newf.
It is vital that your puppy's parents have their hearts tested to be free of DCM and SAS, preferably by echo doppler with the certificate to prove that it is of normal flow. You get some readings that are equivocal with a higher flow reading. This is where there are no heart defects to be found, but the flow has a higher rate. Take the time to read the article below to understand the heart defects that can occur.
Imagine the heart break of buying your precious puppy to then have him or her develop an abnormality of the heart and die at 6 months old ! Sadly it is a fact of the breed and has happened to many. One of the biggest killers for this breed is heart defects so please check the results with care on both sides. Please use this link for further reading to explain the varying degrees of heart problems in Newfoundland -
www.thenewfoundlandclub.co.uk/heartdisease.html
Cystinuria is another health concern. This is a condition of the bladder and can be very painful requiring medication for the dog. Each parent is either "a carrier" or a "non carrier." If both parents are "non carriers" then none of the offspring can ever be affected by the condition. If one parent is a "carrier" and the other a "non carrier" then 50% of the offspring will be "carriers" and 50% "non carriers." None of the offspring will be affected by the condition. If both parents are "carriers" then the offspring will be affected with this painful condition as it means two "carriers" have produced the gene together to inflict upon the poor suffering offspring.
This is a totally and absolutely unnecessary health condition that can be avoided very easily with good breeding and a simple DNA blood or swab sample at a cost of around £55 per test. This can be done with either Laboklin or Vetgen and both are easily sourced through the internet or from our "Links" page. Again ask if there is proof that this test has been carried through. Even when our own dogs are clear by parentage, we still have the test done to confirm this by DNA.
There is further reading to be found if you copy and paste this link
www.vetgen.com/canine-strategies.html
For further reading please use the link below.
http://www.thenewfoundlandclub.co.uk/cystinuria_in_newfoundlands.htm
With diet i would advise you feed your puppy the best you can afford, even if it is only for the first twelve months of his or her life. They need excellent nutrition to help with the vast growth phases and to maintain stability. The saying you get out what you put in is very true. We still use fish skin treats for good dentition ! My growing puppies are always supplemented with Flex Powder or Liquiflex. This is the same product with one being a powder and the other a liquid. This has excellent joint healing and developing properties and it contains all natural ingredients. I also use glucosamine sulphate 2KCI. It helps keep the synovial fluid strong that surrounds the joint when fast growth stages are at their optimum.
We supplement too with Sunflower oil and salmon oil daily in their food for joint mobility and skin and coat care. I feed a lot of sardines to our dogs as these have excellent health benefits. I use sardines in sunflower oil and also in tomato sauce.
You can also supplement with marine collagen to aid ligament, muscle, tendon and joint development.
Also if your dog has arthritis you can give CBD oil. This helped Anoushka greatly in her mobility and i cannot recommend this enough -
www.rover.com/blog/5-healthy-oils-give-dogs-coat-brain-boost/
www.cbdoil.org/cbd-oil-for-dogs/?fbclid=IwAR1BPh
1jQ-4m-rpDQNxY69rcdjyn7t98gxQnOetgCzVMLVjXZ7yZDOLo6N4
I will give you the links to some of the supplements for further reading. I do not buy the pet ones as i buy human supplements and buy in bulk as the ingredients are far higher in content and in my opinion, do more good and my vet is always happy with what i give my dogs as they are seen by my vets for check ups and reviews and they are always very happy with my dogs health and well being -
www.organicnewsroom.com/collagen/
totalhealthmagazine.com/Vitamins-and-Supplements/Help-Your-Joints-with-Hyaluronic-Acid.html
Newfoundlands like many other breeds are quite fickle to allergies. Again Anoushka had many allergies which are all food related. This led me at the time to study many types of kibble and their ingredients and to be honest, it is quite shocking what is in there ! Some will advertise fish & rice on the front and then read chicken meal (meal not meat) on the reverse. My advice is take your time to study the products and read the quality of the ingredients. Always remember that the first ingredient listed is the main ingredient. So if cereal comes first you know there is not much meat content or goodness in there ! and meal is not meat but a dehydrated substitute.
If you do feed a kibble with meal in it there are good types of meal and bad types of meal. I have added an article for you to read so you can read about the different types of meat meals and it will tell you what is in some of the bad meat meals. If you chose a beef or chicken meal ingredient it is not as bad, but still not pure meat, just dried out i suppose a bit like an Oxo cube. Have a read at the Bully Max link below and this explains it quite well and then you can decide upon reading the ingredients in your dog food what you would like to do to feed your dog.
Surprisingly, you will find this in some expensive kibble with some manufacturers. I cannot recommend a high quality kibble enough to give your puppy the best start in life. If after a year you decide to cut back then, at least when the puppy has reached a year old they have gained optimum nutrition for growth and play during the most important time when they needed it.
My motto is "feed meat not wheat!" and you will be surprised how some very big brand names contain wheat, soya, digest they call it to name a few.
Have a read of this to see what some of the terms they use on dog foods actually mean and i think you will change your mind !
truthaboutpetfood.com/deal-breaker-pet-food-ingredients/
Newfoundlands should have a steady growth cycle over a two year period. Please do not try to force growth thinking "hey great, it's getting massive." Be sensible and treat your puppy with love and care and yes, they may be a giant breed, but they really are so very delicate. They need your love and common sense to see them through into adult hood. If simple guidelines are observed then hopefully you and puppy will have lots of happy, healthy playful times together.
Another trait of the Newfoundland is the jaw !!! and i mean they have a good strong jaw that can chew it's way through most things that are deemed indestructible. Chose your toys wisely and always supervise as they can destroy and digest plastic and hard rubber in no time. As your puppy gets older their jaw will get stronger, so i would recommend the Kong style toys that stand up to most hardened chewers. Think of it this way, you have a dog that needs to chew as it is a dogs nature to. By making sure you provide adequate (although quite expensive) toys, your furniture will hopefully be less appealing.
Don't give cooked bones to your Newfoundland. These can kill. They splinter and can pierce the intestines, killing your dog and making it a very painful death. This happens more than what you would like to think about. Chose the upper end of the scale of chews and supervise them whilst they chew to see what they are digesting. There are safer hard chews coming out all the time. Yak bars are the newest type that are actually made of milk ! I have tried with success, but just to explain there are alternatives coming out to bones. Many use Antlers but i have heard for and against for these too so it is really up to you to do your research and keep your Newfie safe.
One new type of chew we have tried here are the Chewroots. They are safe and are actual roots of trees. Anoushka cannot have meat chews so this has been really good for her and she loves it.
GDV (Bloat)
This is a common know problem among deep chested giant/large breeds and if one owns a dog that is know to suffer such issues, then you should certainly be prepared to know what the signs are so you can take very quick action as it is the difference between life and death of your dog.
Gastric dilatation and volvulus syndrome (GDV), also known as bloat, occurs in dogs when the stomach dilates and twists into an abnormal position, causing nonproductive retching, a bloated abdomen, Obvious pain and other symptoms. GDV is a serious, life-threatening condition that requires emergency treatment. Without prompt medical attention, dogs with bloat can die very quickly. Even with prompt intervention, some dogs can still die from this condition. The cause of GDV is not completely understood; however, it is sometimes seen in dogs that eat a large amount of food or drink a large volume of water very quickly and then exercise soon after. The accumulation of fluids, food, and gas causes the stomach to twist, blocking the openings leading into and out of the stomach so that food, water, and gas cannot escape. GDV has been associated with increasing age and having a family history of GDV. It is advised you leave it two hours after eating before walking and exercise, going in the car or on a grooming table. Food takes two hours to pass from the stomach into the intestine so by giving it this time, there is a good chance the food will have been digested, minimising the chance of bloat.
When the stomach dilates and maintains its normal position, the condition is known asgastric dilatation. Gastric dilatation can occur in any dog and is quite common among young puppies that overeat. Dogs are usually able to relieve the built-up pressure in their stomachs by vomiting or by belching. When belching and vomiting don't provide relief, emergency treatment similar to that for GDV may be necessary. It may be difficult to determine whether a dog is experiencing simple dilatation, or dilatation and volvulus until radiographs are taken of the stomach.
Dogs with GDV will often have a distended abdomen and will retch non-productively producing a frothy saliva. Many will be depressed, salivate excessively, and act restless. May keep looking at the abdomen where the pain is. The diagnosis is based on clinical symptoms and the dog's medical history. It is not possible to differentiate between simple dilatation and volvulus until a radiograph of the dog's abdomen determines if the stomach is displaced or not. GDV is a medical emergency, and treatment should begin as soon as possible. The sooner the dog is treated, the greater its chance of survival. Treatment is often initiated even before the test results (e.g. radiographs, an ECG, blood tests) are available. Initial treatment focuses on treating for shock, along with decompression of the stomach.
In cases of simple dilatation, the dog is sedated and a tube is passed through its mouth and into its stomach to remove built-up gas and fluid. This procedure is known as medical decompression. After the buildup is removed, a warm-water stomach lavage is performed to wash out accumulated food and gastric juices. If the stomach is twisted, it may be impossible to pass a tube through the mouth and into the stomach, and surgery will be required. Whether dogs with GDV require emergency surgery or not, prophylactic surgery is recommended to avoid recurrence. Surgery involves the following:
Prognosis and prevention: Without prompt medical attention, bloat can cause death. The patient's prognosis depends primarily on its condition prior to and during surgery. The more time that passes from the onset of symptoms to the initiation of treatment, the worse the prognosis. Dogs that require removal of part of the stomach (partial gastrectomy) have a decreased chance of survival.
Heavy panting can also cause bloat. Air is consumed into the stomach when they pant heavily. This is why you are best leaving them to be quiet after their meals if possible. This is called Aerophagia. If a lot of water is consumed on top of them panting, this too can cause bloat. So just be aware of these factors to help minimize the risk.
Feeding smaller, more frequent meals and waiting at least two hours after eating before exercising can reduce the risk of bloat. Also soaking the kibble can help too. At Shirebears we feed at 7.15am, and walk at 10.45am. They are fed at 4.00pm their remainder large meal as they rest after this meal so it is digested without too much exercise going off and feeding at this time. Before we go to bed we have time to make sure all gets digested as much as possible. Your routine is your own so work around your lifestyle.
This said about food though, i have known many many cases where exercise has definitely not been involved, but a highly stressed dog has ! Until there are further studies into GDV there will always be a worry. I have known cases where someone has fed very cheap dog food and has lost several giant breeds to bloat but continues to feed the same cheap kibble full of wheat so this is why i advise against feeding a kibble full of wheat ingredients. Bulk carbohydrates and high fat diets are also not advised.
Please use the link for further reading -
http://www.thenewfoundlandclub.co.uk/files/health/bloat_symptom_guide.pdf
To Spay and Neuter or not ??
I have to recommend that this be carried out at a age of around 3 years. If you really feel this is what needs to be done, wait up until this time to give your Newfoundland time to grow and develop naturally. Newfoundlands grow at a much slower rate and mature so much later than other breeds. They are not classed as an adult until "at least" two years of age. They continue to grow and change up to 5 years old ! The ONLY time it should be carried out prior to this age is for medical reasons.
There are several health problems that can arise from being done too early and one is the increased risk of dysplacia along with hypothyroidism and bone cancer.
I have given a link below for you to read the pro's & con's and then you can decide for yourself. Here at Shirebears we can only recommend that it is left until at least 3 years of age and then with your yearly health check with your vet, discuss the health of your dog at the time and assess on a yearly basis.
Please be aware that some vets will tell you to spay and neuter BEFORE the age i have advised. This is not the right information for a "giant" breed dog. They are NOT like other breeds and NEED their own time to grow and develop. If there is a medical reason like we had with Anoushka which was phantom pregnancies resulting in 22 hours a day sleep, hormones gone a little haywire and milk production, then she was spayed but not until she was at least 2 so we have first hand a dog done earlier than advised, but for a medical reason, but we still waited as long as we could.
Some dogs do develop urinary incontinence after a bitch spay. It also helps with the condition Pyometra as spayed bitches are unlikely to develop Pyometra after being spayed. There is something called a stump Pyo which can occur in spayed bitches, but thankfully this is rare. Pyometra is a condition every bitch owner should become familiar with. This is known as a womb infection.
This can be open or closed and can be life threatening. Pus can leak into the stomach in a closed pyo and it is harder to detect. Look for an increased thirst (Polydipsia) and distended stomach, lethargy, fever. They may also clean themselves a lot more. A open Pyo you will get discharge from the vulva and your chances are much better at treating an open Pyo. Left untreated the body will go into shock and kidney failure can occur and death. Pyo can occur at any age, but is more common in middle aged to older bitches. But young girls cannot be ruled out. If you suspect a Pyo in your girl, take her to the vets as soon as possible for a check up. Better to be safe than sorry. Pyometra is more likely to occur after a bitch has had a season. Sometimes 2 - 8 weeks after but can be up to twelve weeks after too. So keep an eye on her behaviour after her season as well as during. You can find some further reading on the link below.
Below are two links for female and male on this subject which i hope you will find useful to form your own opinion. Also an article from Dogs Naturally magazine.
http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/health/articles/spaying-female-dog.html
http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/health/articles/neutering-male-dog.html
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/spay-neuter-and-joint-disease/?utm_campaign=shareaholic&utm_medium=facebook&utm_source=socialnetwork
https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/pyometra-in-dogs
Heat Stroke.....
This can be a killer too if your Newf gets that hot they have heatstroke. Do not walk them in hot temperatures. Do not put them in a hot car. Keep them cool with fans where possible. We have paddle pods of water to cool their paws down. They sweat through their paws so it is these that you need to keep cool. Spray them with either tepid water or surgical spirit at regular intervals to help with rapid absorption. If they get too hot they can go into shock, so keep an eye on their behaviour and if unsure, check their pulse. Their heart rate is counted for 15 seconds and then times it by 4. A large breed should be at rest 60-100 beats per minute. (Puppies can be double this total) You can check their pulse which is located in the inner upper thigh on either side. If they are very lethargic, fast heart rate, it may be better to get a vet to look over your dog. But first, spray those paws and keep them cool where possible. If they are panting too hard, it is not a good idea to feed them until they have cooled down because of the risk of bloat.
You can always shave their under belly to help them keep cooler, but i would not recommend you shave their coats as the coat helps keep them warm in the winter but should help them keep cooler in the summer. You risk sunburn if you shave a coat right off. Unless for medical reasons a coat is better to be left. You can thin the coat out which is the better solution using a rake or King Comb.
Some people use cooling coats but i have heard good and bad about these so it is your decision whether you invest in one of these. You can also place a cool wet towel over them to help cool down the body. Never use ice cold water to chuck over them or dip their paws in. This can send their body into shock. If you suspect heatstroke or dehydration, check their gums too as these should be slippy and wet. If they are tacky and not smooth, this is a sign they are dehydrated.
Grooming.....
A Newfoundland has a double coat. It is by nature a water rescue dog. The top coat is usually finer and silkier but the undercoat is thicker, feeling downy and softer and more durable. Their top coat can be wet, but that protective undercoat will stop the water from penetrating the skin making them the ideal water rescue dog.
This coat though needs grooming care and attention at least once a week. The problem areas are the inside of the hind legs, under the elbows where long hair is in full flow and behind the ears. Here knots amass very quickly if left unattended and will soon knot into a full grown ungroomable solid ball if not combed out. If you are not committed to looking after their coat then i would question if you are really ready for a Newfoundland. Their coats MUST be attended to as the skin will not breath causing horrendous sores called hot spots, and the only way to get rid of a solid matt of fur is with a pair of scissors - not pretty ! and on top of that, then you could be paying for medication to clear up a bacterial hot spot.
My advice is to by some good grooming tools at the start. Cheap and cheerful will not stand up to the rigors of this challenging coat. You will need a couple of brushes, a good quality comb, a couple of pairs of good scissors, one thinning and one for trimming in general and if the budget meets, a blaster that only blasts cold air - NOT HEAT.
I use and recommend a good quality pin brush. I LOVE my pin brush and favour it over all other types. I find with this i can get right down to the bottom of the fur and work from the base out. I use a Chris Christensen long tooth high quality comb and the best scissors i can afford as all the above makes my job a whole lot easier and will yours too. If you are of mind that you "will take it to the groomers now and again" - This is not fair on the dogs and just shows the level of dedication in caring for your Newfoundland. There are no short cuts on this breed so do not be tempted to take any. They are hard work and need to be kept in good condition for their skin to breath. You can find grooming tips and ways to care for their coat as simply looking on youtube. Penny Schubert is an excellent link having several sessions of trimming various areas. See our "Links" page for her grooming videos.
I always line groom with a comb once a week and then brush once a week, so each dog gets done twice a week. Also i dry blast once or twice a week too to get rid of debris and dead skin out of the coat. Trim under their feet where their pads are as this stops them slipping and keeps their feet nice and tidy. It is like you walking with scrunched up socks on if you do not clip out the fur under there!
There is also this link to enhance your reading
http://www.newfstock.ca/pdf/GROOMING-YOUR-NEWFOUNDLAND.pdf
For fleas At the moment i am using Flevox.
Wormers We use Milbamax one a year and also Cestem or Drontal. If you want to go natural you can use rabbit or cow ears with the fur still on.
Time together....
A Newfoundland HATES being left alone for long periods of time. They NEED human company and will thrive on it. Mine are around me 24/7 365 a year, and i would not have it any other way, and nor would they. If you have full time work or family commitments, then have you really got the time for a Newfoundland? Please do not take a Newfoundland into your home unless you can give it the best quality of life. There are too many by far in welfare !
They hate central heating so be prepared to live life in a barn !!!!!!
Because of our experience with our own brought puppy having a dysplasia condition, we welcome any questions regarding the condition. We can offer help & advice on the operations and what it all involves, the cost, the rehabilitation programme's available, medications, alternative medicines along with any relevant supplements that aid the healing process of this awful painful condition.
Remember though each dog and condition is different and you should always work alongside the professionals. Feeding plenty of fish in their diet can be massively beneficial for joints and healing, especially any fish in sunflower oil.
You do not have to had a puppy from us to gain our advice, we are here to help because we love the breed and do not like the thought of a Newfoundland suffering unnecessarily. Our help and advise is there should anybody require it and is always confidential. Please use our contacts page and we will get back to you.
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© Shirebears Newfoundlands
Within this page I have gone into more detail with many health issues so hopefully you can be more informed about most things dog related.
A Newfoundland may be a "giant" breed but they are possibly one of the most vulnerable dogs in terms of health and exercise. If you want to take your dogs on long walks whilst young, then a Newfoundland is possibly not for you.
It is vitally important that you build your exercise up very gently. This is to be built up over time and when there is an obvious growth stage, take extra care. Walks should be built up at a steady pace to build muscle correctly.
The growth of these dogs is so vast in such a short space of time, therefore their joints need to adapt and change constantly. This is why an overweight puppy can too lead to joint problems in early life. If growth is too quick most advise you switch you puppy onto adult food to slow down the growth process. For me, it is important not so much the protein if you are feeding a high quality kibble, but you do not want to feed a kibble too high in calcium and phosphorous. Aim for one for puppies with calcium under 2 on the analyst chart and phosphorous around 1.1 or less. They will still reach their optimum size but the slower the better with this breed. Each puppy should be assessed individually as one rule does not fit all and also it depends on the type of diet your dog is fed. There are certain nutrients in puppy food your puppy needs so only swap when you have to. If feeding an all stages high premium food, this is not applicable as they do not normally have a puppy food, but follow the guidelines as you feed less of this food as it is of higher quality.
Some chose to feed raw but you have to be sure you understand the balance of the diet to make sure your dogs gets all the vital nutrition it requires for growth & development. Neither is wrong, it is what suits your dog and your lifestyle. I have two dogs that meat does not suit, so kibble is easier for me as they are on a fish only diet.
We feed a good quality kibble. I go by recommended guidelines and go by what comes out one end to be honest with you and also what i feel upon their body. What comes out and what the ribs feel like tells you a lot.
Try to remember that your puppy will get all the exercise he or she needs from playing at home in the garden and socializing with short walks building up minutes gradually. Puppies tire very quickly so let your puppy sleep when they need it and play when they are ready. Endurance exercise is best avoided until your puppy reaches about 18 months of age. If you are not prepared to wait then we advise you research a different breed that would better suit your lifestyle. Stairs and steep steps and jagged inclines are also not advised, but steep up hill walking can be beneficial to building up strong muscle tone and improving rear drive. Anything that bears weight and pressure onto the forefront or the rear is to be avoided such as jumping in and out of the cars without support. Continuous forced weight bearing on growing delicate joints can cause dysplastic conditions. This is a lifetime condition of the hips and elbows that can lead to a painful life with arthritis and medication. This can be near avoided if our guidelines here are followed. In some cases as with our own and first Newfoundland Anoushka, she developed double elbow dysplasia at just four months old and she was from health tested parents with good scores, but it can and does happen sadly. This is why at Shirebears we know the importance of caring for joints and how it affects all your lives first hand. Health testing BOTH parents can help eliminate an awful lot of health problems but sadly just like with people, it can and does happen and does not guarantee a fit and healthy puppy. The health testing clarify's the degree of any problems (if any) and whether they are of good breeding stock, remembering that your puppy inherits everything from both its parents. This is why both parents should be tested. Do not buy a puppy from a single health tested breeding.
For further reading on dysplasia in Newfoundland please use the link below -
http://truenewfoundlanddoglovers.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/canine-hip-dysplasia.html
This article is well worth five minutes of your time. It explains how the bones form in the joint and why dogs get joint issues. It recommends their supplement of course, which i do not use, but the information is that good it is worth having on here to share.
http://products.mercola.com/healthypets/pet-joint-supplements/
As well as dysplasia the Newfoundland can be prone to heart problems too. This very sadly can cause some to die at a very young age and very suddenly, with not a lot that can be done to help or save the dogs life. Some Newfoundlands can be clear for many years and do not get heart issues until later in life. Heart problems have always been a worry for our beloved breed. Medication is very advanced and can help get more years out of your beloved Newf.
It is vital that your puppy's parents have their hearts tested to be free of DCM and SAS, preferably by echo doppler with the certificate to prove that it is of normal flow. You get some readings that are equivocal with a higher flow reading. This is where there are no heart defects to be found, but the flow has a higher rate. Take the time to read the article below to understand the heart defects that can occur.
Imagine the heart break of buying your precious puppy to then have him or her develop an abnormality of the heart and die at 6 months old ! Sadly it is a fact of the breed and has happened to many. One of the biggest killers for this breed is heart defects so please check the results with care on both sides. Please use this link for further reading to explain the varying degrees of heart problems in Newfoundland -
www.thenewfoundlandclub.co.uk/heartdisease.html
Cystinuria is another health concern. This is a condition of the bladder and can be very painful requiring medication for the dog. Each parent is either "a carrier" or a "non carrier." If both parents are "non carriers" then none of the offspring can ever be affected by the condition. If one parent is a "carrier" and the other a "non carrier" then 50% of the offspring will be "carriers" and 50% "non carriers." None of the offspring will be affected by the condition. If both parents are "carriers" then the offspring will be affected with this painful condition as it means two "carriers" have produced the gene together to inflict upon the poor suffering offspring.
This is a totally and absolutely unnecessary health condition that can be avoided very easily with good breeding and a simple DNA blood or swab sample at a cost of around £55 per test. This can be done with either Laboklin or Vetgen and both are easily sourced through the internet or from our "Links" page. Again ask if there is proof that this test has been carried through. Even when our own dogs are clear by parentage, we still have the test done to confirm this by DNA.
There is further reading to be found if you copy and paste this link
www.vetgen.com/canine-strategies.html
For further reading please use the link below.
http://www.thenewfoundlandclub.co.uk/cystinuria_in_newfoundlands.htm
With diet i would advise you feed your puppy the best you can afford, even if it is only for the first twelve months of his or her life. They need excellent nutrition to help with the vast growth phases and to maintain stability. The saying you get out what you put in is very true. We still use fish skin treats for good dentition ! My growing puppies are always supplemented with Flex Powder or Liquiflex. This is the same product with one being a powder and the other a liquid. This has excellent joint healing and developing properties and it contains all natural ingredients. I also use glucosamine sulphate 2KCI. It helps keep the synovial fluid strong that surrounds the joint when fast growth stages are at their optimum.
We supplement too with Sunflower oil and salmon oil daily in their food for joint mobility and skin and coat care. I feed a lot of sardines to our dogs as these have excellent health benefits. I use sardines in sunflower oil and also in tomato sauce.
You can also supplement with marine collagen to aid ligament, muscle, tendon and joint development.
Also if your dog has arthritis you can give CBD oil. This helped Anoushka greatly in her mobility and i cannot recommend this enough -
www.rover.com/blog/5-healthy-oils-give-dogs-coat-brain-boost/
www.cbdoil.org/cbd-oil-for-dogs/?fbclid=IwAR1BPh
1jQ-4m-rpDQNxY69rcdjyn7t98gxQnOetgCzVMLVjXZ7yZDOLo6N4
I will give you the links to some of the supplements for further reading. I do not buy the pet ones as i buy human supplements and buy in bulk as the ingredients are far higher in content and in my opinion, do more good and my vet is always happy with what i give my dogs as they are seen by my vets for check ups and reviews and they are always very happy with my dogs health and well being -
www.organicnewsroom.com/collagen/
totalhealthmagazine.com/Vitamins-and-Supplements/Help-Your-Joints-with-Hyaluronic-Acid.html
Newfoundlands like many other breeds are quite fickle to allergies. Again Anoushka had many allergies which are all food related. This led me at the time to study many types of kibble and their ingredients and to be honest, it is quite shocking what is in there ! Some will advertise fish & rice on the front and then read chicken meal (meal not meat) on the reverse. My advice is take your time to study the products and read the quality of the ingredients. Always remember that the first ingredient listed is the main ingredient. So if cereal comes first you know there is not much meat content or goodness in there ! and meal is not meat but a dehydrated substitute.
If you do feed a kibble with meal in it there are good types of meal and bad types of meal. I have added an article for you to read so you can read about the different types of meat meals and it will tell you what is in some of the bad meat meals. If you chose a beef or chicken meal ingredient it is not as bad, but still not pure meat, just dried out i suppose a bit like an Oxo cube. Have a read at the Bully Max link below and this explains it quite well and then you can decide upon reading the ingredients in your dog food what you would like to do to feed your dog.
Surprisingly, you will find this in some expensive kibble with some manufacturers. I cannot recommend a high quality kibble enough to give your puppy the best start in life. If after a year you decide to cut back then, at least when the puppy has reached a year old they have gained optimum nutrition for growth and play during the most important time when they needed it.
My motto is "feed meat not wheat!" and you will be surprised how some very big brand names contain wheat, soya, digest they call it to name a few.
Have a read of this to see what some of the terms they use on dog foods actually mean and i think you will change your mind !
truthaboutpetfood.com/deal-breaker-pet-food-ingredients/
Newfoundlands should have a steady growth cycle over a two year period. Please do not try to force growth thinking "hey great, it's getting massive." Be sensible and treat your puppy with love and care and yes, they may be a giant breed, but they really are so very delicate. They need your love and common sense to see them through into adult hood. If simple guidelines are observed then hopefully you and puppy will have lots of happy, healthy playful times together.
Another trait of the Newfoundland is the jaw !!! and i mean they have a good strong jaw that can chew it's way through most things that are deemed indestructible. Chose your toys wisely and always supervise as they can destroy and digest plastic and hard rubber in no time. As your puppy gets older their jaw will get stronger, so i would recommend the Kong style toys that stand up to most hardened chewers. Think of it this way, you have a dog that needs to chew as it is a dogs nature to. By making sure you provide adequate (although quite expensive) toys, your furniture will hopefully be less appealing.
Don't give cooked bones to your Newfoundland. These can kill. They splinter and can pierce the intestines, killing your dog and making it a very painful death. This happens more than what you would like to think about. Chose the upper end of the scale of chews and supervise them whilst they chew to see what they are digesting. There are safer hard chews coming out all the time. Yak bars are the newest type that are actually made of milk ! I have tried with success, but just to explain there are alternatives coming out to bones. Many use Antlers but i have heard for and against for these too so it is really up to you to do your research and keep your Newfie safe.
One new type of chew we have tried here are the Chewroots. They are safe and are actual roots of trees. Anoushka cannot have meat chews so this has been really good for her and she loves it.
GDV (Bloat)
This is a common know problem among deep chested giant/large breeds and if one owns a dog that is know to suffer such issues, then you should certainly be prepared to know what the signs are so you can take very quick action as it is the difference between life and death of your dog.
Gastric dilatation and volvulus syndrome (GDV), also known as bloat, occurs in dogs when the stomach dilates and twists into an abnormal position, causing nonproductive retching, a bloated abdomen, Obvious pain and other symptoms. GDV is a serious, life-threatening condition that requires emergency treatment. Without prompt medical attention, dogs with bloat can die very quickly. Even with prompt intervention, some dogs can still die from this condition. The cause of GDV is not completely understood; however, it is sometimes seen in dogs that eat a large amount of food or drink a large volume of water very quickly and then exercise soon after. The accumulation of fluids, food, and gas causes the stomach to twist, blocking the openings leading into and out of the stomach so that food, water, and gas cannot escape. GDV has been associated with increasing age and having a family history of GDV. It is advised you leave it two hours after eating before walking and exercise, going in the car or on a grooming table. Food takes two hours to pass from the stomach into the intestine so by giving it this time, there is a good chance the food will have been digested, minimising the chance of bloat.
When the stomach dilates and maintains its normal position, the condition is known asgastric dilatation. Gastric dilatation can occur in any dog and is quite common among young puppies that overeat. Dogs are usually able to relieve the built-up pressure in their stomachs by vomiting or by belching. When belching and vomiting don't provide relief, emergency treatment similar to that for GDV may be necessary. It may be difficult to determine whether a dog is experiencing simple dilatation, or dilatation and volvulus until radiographs are taken of the stomach.
Dogs with GDV will often have a distended abdomen and will retch non-productively producing a frothy saliva. Many will be depressed, salivate excessively, and act restless. May keep looking at the abdomen where the pain is. The diagnosis is based on clinical symptoms and the dog's medical history. It is not possible to differentiate between simple dilatation and volvulus until a radiograph of the dog's abdomen determines if the stomach is displaced or not. GDV is a medical emergency, and treatment should begin as soon as possible. The sooner the dog is treated, the greater its chance of survival. Treatment is often initiated even before the test results (e.g. radiographs, an ECG, blood tests) are available. Initial treatment focuses on treating for shock, along with decompression of the stomach.
In cases of simple dilatation, the dog is sedated and a tube is passed through its mouth and into its stomach to remove built-up gas and fluid. This procedure is known as medical decompression. After the buildup is removed, a warm-water stomach lavage is performed to wash out accumulated food and gastric juices. If the stomach is twisted, it may be impossible to pass a tube through the mouth and into the stomach, and surgery will be required. Whether dogs with GDV require emergency surgery or not, prophylactic surgery is recommended to avoid recurrence. Surgery involves the following:
- Decompressing the stomach by inserting a large needle or trocar (a surgical instrument used for removing fluids from cavities) into the stomach cavity
- Moving the stomach back to its normal location
- Suturing the stomach to the body wall so it can't twist again (gastropexy)
- Removing parts of the stomach that have been destroyed due to the lack of blood flow
- Removing the spleen if it has been compromised (splenectomy)
Prognosis and prevention: Without prompt medical attention, bloat can cause death. The patient's prognosis depends primarily on its condition prior to and during surgery. The more time that passes from the onset of symptoms to the initiation of treatment, the worse the prognosis. Dogs that require removal of part of the stomach (partial gastrectomy) have a decreased chance of survival.
Heavy panting can also cause bloat. Air is consumed into the stomach when they pant heavily. This is why you are best leaving them to be quiet after their meals if possible. This is called Aerophagia. If a lot of water is consumed on top of them panting, this too can cause bloat. So just be aware of these factors to help minimize the risk.
Feeding smaller, more frequent meals and waiting at least two hours after eating before exercising can reduce the risk of bloat. Also soaking the kibble can help too. At Shirebears we feed at 7.15am, and walk at 10.45am. They are fed at 4.00pm their remainder large meal as they rest after this meal so it is digested without too much exercise going off and feeding at this time. Before we go to bed we have time to make sure all gets digested as much as possible. Your routine is your own so work around your lifestyle.
This said about food though, i have known many many cases where exercise has definitely not been involved, but a highly stressed dog has ! Until there are further studies into GDV there will always be a worry. I have known cases where someone has fed very cheap dog food and has lost several giant breeds to bloat but continues to feed the same cheap kibble full of wheat so this is why i advise against feeding a kibble full of wheat ingredients. Bulk carbohydrates and high fat diets are also not advised.
Please use the link for further reading -
http://www.thenewfoundlandclub.co.uk/files/health/bloat_symptom_guide.pdf
To Spay and Neuter or not ??
I have to recommend that this be carried out at a age of around 3 years. If you really feel this is what needs to be done, wait up until this time to give your Newfoundland time to grow and develop naturally. Newfoundlands grow at a much slower rate and mature so much later than other breeds. They are not classed as an adult until "at least" two years of age. They continue to grow and change up to 5 years old ! The ONLY time it should be carried out prior to this age is for medical reasons.
There are several health problems that can arise from being done too early and one is the increased risk of dysplacia along with hypothyroidism and bone cancer.
I have given a link below for you to read the pro's & con's and then you can decide for yourself. Here at Shirebears we can only recommend that it is left until at least 3 years of age and then with your yearly health check with your vet, discuss the health of your dog at the time and assess on a yearly basis.
Please be aware that some vets will tell you to spay and neuter BEFORE the age i have advised. This is not the right information for a "giant" breed dog. They are NOT like other breeds and NEED their own time to grow and develop. If there is a medical reason like we had with Anoushka which was phantom pregnancies resulting in 22 hours a day sleep, hormones gone a little haywire and milk production, then she was spayed but not until she was at least 2 so we have first hand a dog done earlier than advised, but for a medical reason, but we still waited as long as we could.
Some dogs do develop urinary incontinence after a bitch spay. It also helps with the condition Pyometra as spayed bitches are unlikely to develop Pyometra after being spayed. There is something called a stump Pyo which can occur in spayed bitches, but thankfully this is rare. Pyometra is a condition every bitch owner should become familiar with. This is known as a womb infection.
This can be open or closed and can be life threatening. Pus can leak into the stomach in a closed pyo and it is harder to detect. Look for an increased thirst (Polydipsia) and distended stomach, lethargy, fever. They may also clean themselves a lot more. A open Pyo you will get discharge from the vulva and your chances are much better at treating an open Pyo. Left untreated the body will go into shock and kidney failure can occur and death. Pyo can occur at any age, but is more common in middle aged to older bitches. But young girls cannot be ruled out. If you suspect a Pyo in your girl, take her to the vets as soon as possible for a check up. Better to be safe than sorry. Pyometra is more likely to occur after a bitch has had a season. Sometimes 2 - 8 weeks after but can be up to twelve weeks after too. So keep an eye on her behaviour after her season as well as during. You can find some further reading on the link below.
Below are two links for female and male on this subject which i hope you will find useful to form your own opinion. Also an article from Dogs Naturally magazine.
http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/health/articles/spaying-female-dog.html
http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/health/articles/neutering-male-dog.html
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/spay-neuter-and-joint-disease/?utm_campaign=shareaholic&utm_medium=facebook&utm_source=socialnetwork
https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/pyometra-in-dogs
Heat Stroke.....
This can be a killer too if your Newf gets that hot they have heatstroke. Do not walk them in hot temperatures. Do not put them in a hot car. Keep them cool with fans where possible. We have paddle pods of water to cool their paws down. They sweat through their paws so it is these that you need to keep cool. Spray them with either tepid water or surgical spirit at regular intervals to help with rapid absorption. If they get too hot they can go into shock, so keep an eye on their behaviour and if unsure, check their pulse. Their heart rate is counted for 15 seconds and then times it by 4. A large breed should be at rest 60-100 beats per minute. (Puppies can be double this total) You can check their pulse which is located in the inner upper thigh on either side. If they are very lethargic, fast heart rate, it may be better to get a vet to look over your dog. But first, spray those paws and keep them cool where possible. If they are panting too hard, it is not a good idea to feed them until they have cooled down because of the risk of bloat.
You can always shave their under belly to help them keep cooler, but i would not recommend you shave their coats as the coat helps keep them warm in the winter but should help them keep cooler in the summer. You risk sunburn if you shave a coat right off. Unless for medical reasons a coat is better to be left. You can thin the coat out which is the better solution using a rake or King Comb.
Some people use cooling coats but i have heard good and bad about these so it is your decision whether you invest in one of these. You can also place a cool wet towel over them to help cool down the body. Never use ice cold water to chuck over them or dip their paws in. This can send their body into shock. If you suspect heatstroke or dehydration, check their gums too as these should be slippy and wet. If they are tacky and not smooth, this is a sign they are dehydrated.
Grooming.....
A Newfoundland has a double coat. It is by nature a water rescue dog. The top coat is usually finer and silkier but the undercoat is thicker, feeling downy and softer and more durable. Their top coat can be wet, but that protective undercoat will stop the water from penetrating the skin making them the ideal water rescue dog.
This coat though needs grooming care and attention at least once a week. The problem areas are the inside of the hind legs, under the elbows where long hair is in full flow and behind the ears. Here knots amass very quickly if left unattended and will soon knot into a full grown ungroomable solid ball if not combed out. If you are not committed to looking after their coat then i would question if you are really ready for a Newfoundland. Their coats MUST be attended to as the skin will not breath causing horrendous sores called hot spots, and the only way to get rid of a solid matt of fur is with a pair of scissors - not pretty ! and on top of that, then you could be paying for medication to clear up a bacterial hot spot.
My advice is to by some good grooming tools at the start. Cheap and cheerful will not stand up to the rigors of this challenging coat. You will need a couple of brushes, a good quality comb, a couple of pairs of good scissors, one thinning and one for trimming in general and if the budget meets, a blaster that only blasts cold air - NOT HEAT.
I use and recommend a good quality pin brush. I LOVE my pin brush and favour it over all other types. I find with this i can get right down to the bottom of the fur and work from the base out. I use a Chris Christensen long tooth high quality comb and the best scissors i can afford as all the above makes my job a whole lot easier and will yours too. If you are of mind that you "will take it to the groomers now and again" - This is not fair on the dogs and just shows the level of dedication in caring for your Newfoundland. There are no short cuts on this breed so do not be tempted to take any. They are hard work and need to be kept in good condition for their skin to breath. You can find grooming tips and ways to care for their coat as simply looking on youtube. Penny Schubert is an excellent link having several sessions of trimming various areas. See our "Links" page for her grooming videos.
I always line groom with a comb once a week and then brush once a week, so each dog gets done twice a week. Also i dry blast once or twice a week too to get rid of debris and dead skin out of the coat. Trim under their feet where their pads are as this stops them slipping and keeps their feet nice and tidy. It is like you walking with scrunched up socks on if you do not clip out the fur under there!
There is also this link to enhance your reading
http://www.newfstock.ca/pdf/GROOMING-YOUR-NEWFOUNDLAND.pdf
For fleas At the moment i am using Flevox.
Wormers We use Milbamax one a year and also Cestem or Drontal. If you want to go natural you can use rabbit or cow ears with the fur still on.
Time together....
A Newfoundland HATES being left alone for long periods of time. They NEED human company and will thrive on it. Mine are around me 24/7 365 a year, and i would not have it any other way, and nor would they. If you have full time work or family commitments, then have you really got the time for a Newfoundland? Please do not take a Newfoundland into your home unless you can give it the best quality of life. There are too many by far in welfare !
They hate central heating so be prepared to live life in a barn !!!!!!
Because of our experience with our own brought puppy having a dysplasia condition, we welcome any questions regarding the condition. We can offer help & advice on the operations and what it all involves, the cost, the rehabilitation programme's available, medications, alternative medicines along with any relevant supplements that aid the healing process of this awful painful condition.
Remember though each dog and condition is different and you should always work alongside the professionals. Feeding plenty of fish in their diet can be massively beneficial for joints and healing, especially any fish in sunflower oil.
You do not have to had a puppy from us to gain our advice, we are here to help because we love the breed and do not like the thought of a Newfoundland suffering unnecessarily. Our help and advise is there should anybody require it and is always confidential. Please use our contacts page and we will get back to you.
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I have completed a Canine first aid course with animal love in June 2020. This will help with basic knowledge of treating and caring for your dog in an emergency and general well being. A cheap course to take but holds some valuable information.
www.animallovepetfirstaid.co.uk/ |
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